Thursday, April 10, 2008

The hostel at the end of the world - Trujillo

The bus trip to Trujillo was eventless, though there was much confusion in the end as to where the hostel was that we´d picked out - Casa Kiwi. The book said that you could ask the driver to drop you off there, but they said that it was further on, beyond Trujillo, which in the end it was. It´s actually in the middle of nowhere, halfway between Trujillo and Puerto Castilla, further east. We were lucky, though, and didn´t have to wait long for a local connecting bus to Puerto Castillo that did, indeed, drop us off at the hostel. Well, at the beginning of their VERY long dirt driveway, anyway.
Casa Kiwi is a curious place, completely isolated on a wind-swept plain which gives directly onto a nice sand beach and one of the calmest bays we´d ever seen. It really did feel like the hostel at the end of the world. The staff were helpful and friendly, especially Daney (sp?) and Scott, but they all seemed a bit trapped and unhappy. All of them were planning to move on within the next month, which tells you something, I guess. The first night the food was really good, as the guide book had said. That changed the next day, though, as Marcus, the cook, disappeared, and remained AWOL until the day we left. (Turns out he´d gone on a two-day bender in town without telling anyone.) The food was atrocious at that point, but as we were so isolated, we didn´t have much choice. While there we researched our trip into the Moskitia as much as we could. It´s quite expensive to get in, and once in, it´s very expensive to travel around, as the only means of transport within the Moskitia is via dug-out canoes, some motorized, some propelled by poles or paddles. From what we read, the only way to get in without flying was via pick-up trucks that left early in the morning from Tocoa, about halfway back to La Ceiba. We weren´t too eager to stay in the strange Casa Kiwi longer than we had to, so we packed up after just a few days and jumped the bus to Tocoa.

No comments: