Five buses from Yuscaran to Esteli: Danli, El Paraiso, Las Manos (border crossing), Ocotal, and finally Estelli. They were all slow, chicken buses as well, but the trip was easy enough. We went at a snail´s pace much of time, stopping every 50 feet or so to pick up or let off passengers, but we still got to Esteli by 2pm or so. (We left Yuscaran on a 6:30am bus.)
Unfortunately, Esteli didn´t live up to the charms toted in our guide book. The ex-Sandinista stronghold seems to be going through changes, and many of the places discussed in the book were no longer open. Hotels were very expensive, and you got little for your money. The town almost feels more like a suburb than a city, except for the nice central square (with a closed movie theater on it.) We found a cheap guest house for the night and decided to move on the next day, not enamored of the town, nor the people, who mostly ignored us.
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